You don’t really hear much about the National Park in North Dakota, do you? It’s unlike its popular counterparts – Yosemite, Yellowstone, and Glacier but there is something special about it. Named after the 26th President of the United States, you can find this National Park in the North Dakota Badlands. This is not to be confused with the South Dakota Badlands, which are equally beautiful but completely different. I know a lot of people bypass this beautiful place and question, is Theodore Roosevelt National Park really worth a visit?
For More On My Western Roadtrip Read These:
12 Incredible Things To Do At Theodore Roosevelt National Park
One Day In Badlands National Park
Is Mount Rushmore Worth The Trip?
14 Fun Things To Do In Deadwood, South Dakota
First-Timers Guide To Yellowstone National Park
The One Place You Can’t Miss In Yellowstone National Park
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Is This Park Worth A Visit?
Yes! This area had a transformative impact on our 26th President and it will have the same effect on you. Uncrowded wide open spaces and gorgeous vistas make you want to belt “Home On The Range!” But in all honesty, this National Park is one of the least crowded National Parks I’ve ever visited. Not to mention, the bison and the wild horses who roam free and call this place home. Believe it or not, the Park remains much like it was when Roosevelt ranched and hunted here. And there is something really special about that.
The Basics:
How Did The Park Get Its Name?
This National Park was established to memorialize this area’s importance in the 26th President’s life. This place played a key role in fostering conservation ethics. The North Dakota badlands inspired those conservation ethics and so much more!
Where Is TRNP?
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is in North Dakota. I visited during a huge 16-day roadtrip – it is an easy stop to make if you are visiting Glacier, Yellowstone, or even Badlands National Park and the Black Hills of South Dakota. Although this is one of the area’s most underrated National Parks, it is absolutely worth a visit!
How Do I Get To There?
Air –
The largest airport with the cheapest flights in the area is in Bismarck. Although Bismark is a bit more of a drive at 137 miles away, the cost alone is worth that extra drive time.
Roadtrip –
Many people make a huge National Park roadtrip loop and include TRNP, although I have a sneaking suspicion that a lot of people skip over this gem.
For reference, Badlands National Park in South Dakota is about 260 miles (around 4.5 hours) south.
Yellowstone National Park is about 456 miles (between 6 and 7 hours) south west.
Glacier National Park is approximately 533 miles (8 hours give or take) north west.
How Long Does It Take To Visit?
Well, the park spans 70,000 acres over 3 units. I suggest going for at least 3 days. You can easily make this a stop on any roadtrip and spend a day here as well.
Know Before You Go:
There is an entrance fee at TRNP
- $30 per vehicle for 7 days for all persons traveling in a single car
- $25 per motorcycle for 7 days
- $15 per person on foot
- You can purchase your pass before your trip here
- $55 for annual pass, you can purchase the pass here
- If you are planning a big road trip and visiting a bunch of National Parks, I recommend an America The Beautiful Pass – $80 you can purchase that here
- Camping outside of developed campgrounds requires a permit that you can purchase here
- There are no food, lodging, gas, auto repair, or mail services within the National Park.
- Medora has all of those goods and services for the South Unit
- Waterford City has all of those goods and services for the North Unit
- This is not a particularly dog friendly National Park, but more on that later!
The Three Units
Theodore Roosevelt North Unit –
Visit the North Unit if you are looking for solitude.
This area is known for the Grand Canyon of the Little Missiori. The North Unit is a bit off the beaten path alongside ND Highway 85. Its wilderness and beauty, and the solitude you’ll experience in this unit of the park are well worth the 50 mile drive from Interstate 94.
What Is There To Do In The North Unit?
1. A 28-Mile Scenic Drive –
Take a drive on the 14
Tip: Don’t miss the River Bend Overlook!
2. Hike In The Park –
Prairie Dog Town via Buckhorn Trail
- Distance: 1.9 miles
- Rating: Easy
- Elevation Gain: 104 ft
- This trail starts at the Caprock Coulee Trailhead and follows the Buckhorn Trail to a prairie dog town. Be sure to plan some extra time for wildlife viewing!
Tip: Where there are prairie dogs there are a lot of other animals – keep an eye out!
Sperati Point via Achenbach Trail
- Distance: 2.4 miles
- Rating: Moderate
- Elevation Gain: 269 ft
- Begin at Oxbow Overlook. A gently rolling walk leads to an overlook of the Little Missouri River.
Tip: In this summer this trail features beautiful wildflowers!
Caprock Coulee Loop Trail
- Distance: 4.4 miles
- Rating: Moderate
- Elevation Gain: 583 ft
- Hike through badlands terrain and dry washes as you experience a variety of habitats.
3. Camping In The Park –
The North Unit features the Juniper Campground, a first come first serve campground. It only occasionally fills to capacity on weekends during the summer peak season.
Juniper Campground
- Enter the North Unit from Highway 85. Travel 5.5 miles on the scenic drive. Juniper Campground is on the left
- Total Sites: 50
- All sites are open to tent camping and most can also be used by vehicles/RVs (no hookups)
- All sites are first come/first serve
Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit –
Visit the south unit for gorgeous views and wildlife.
The South Unit is conveniently located along Interstate 94. This part of the park is the most visited area. There are two visitor centers, a scenic drive, hiking trails, and plenty of wildlife entice visitors to stay a while.
What Is There To Do In The South Unit?
1. Take In The Wildlife
The South Unit is known as the best place for wildlife viewing. You may be wondering, what animals are in Theodore Roosevelt National Park.
- Bison
- Elk
- Mule Deer
- Prairie Dogs
- Coyotes
- Pronghorn (antelope)
- Bald & Golden Eagles
- Wild Horses
Tip: The feral horses inhabit the South Unit only. The wild horses are often spotted at the park boundary from Interstate 94. Horses can also be seen at a distance from high points such as the Painted Canyon Overlook and Buck Hill.
Remember to keep a safe distance from all wildlife –
- All wildlife in the park are wild and potentially dangerous
- Respect the animals in their natural habitat – this is not a zoo
- Maintain a distance of at least 25 yards from all wild animals
- Use binoculars, spotting scopes, or telephoto lenses for safe viewing and to avoid disturbing them
Recommended Gear:
Also, Remember:
- Keep pets in your vehicle. Pets may scare wildlife, and wild animals can injure your pets
- Use of wildlife calls and spotlights is illegal. They stress animals and alter their natural behavior
- Drive slowly. Watch for animals crossing the road. Deer, elk, pronghorn, and feral horses are seldom alone. If you see one animal, look for others that may follow!
2. Drive 36 Mile Scenic Drive
It’s pretty cool that each unit has its own scenic drive, isn’t it? Plan for at least 1.5 hours but I would say it will take at least 2 hours here as well. There are so many gorgeous overlooks that you will want to stop often to take photos and explore a bit.
Tip: Due to continuous road erosion the former scenic loop between mile markers 24-28 is closed to all traffic (including bicycle and foot traffic).
3. Hike In Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Skyline Vista
- Distance: .2 miles
- Rating: Easy
- Elevation Gain: 16 ft
- Feel the wind in your hair high atop Johnson’s Plateau. This flat, paved nature trail is perfect for those who don’t have much time but want to get out and explore. This trail offers some gorgeous scenic views.
Ridgeline Trail
- Distance: .7 miles
- Rating: Moderate
- Elevation Gain: 111 ft
- This is a great place to spot wildlife outside of your car!
Painted Canyon Nature Trail
- Distance: 1 mile
- Rating: Easy
- Elevation Gain: 262 ft
- This is another great place for seeing wildlife and it’s good for all skill levels
Elkhorn Ranch Unit
The Elkhorn Ranch Unit preserves the place Roosevelt held dear, his “home ranch” after the deaths of his wife and mother. This unit of the park has a special, solemn character. There are no visitor centers, facilities, or scenic roads.
Explore this unit of the park if you are interested in history.
There is a 0.7 mile mowed pathway that leads from the parking area to the Elkhorn cabin site. Exhibits feature passages written by Roosevelt about his experiences at the ranch. Only the cabin’s foundation stones remain, but it’s here that visitors can get a true sense of the peace and solace that Roosevelt found at this special place in the badlands.
Roosevelt chose this location for his ranch because of how remote it was and it remains that way today. The drive is scenic and you’ll still be traveling in a very remote area on unpaved roads.
Warning: The last 3 miles of the drive sometimes require 4-wheel drive. This is usually only during the winter months or after a lot of rain. It’s a good idea to inquire about current road conditions at park visitor centers before you embark.
Tip: There is no cell phone signal at the Elkhorn Ranch or along much of the route to this remote unit of the park.
Get driving directions here.
A Little History:
The current knowledge of the badlands’ prehistoric past is pretty limited because only a handful of artifacts have been found. The items indicated that the badlands region has been inhabited for thousands of years. Archaeologists have dated artifacts found elsewhere in North Dakota back to 11,000 BCE, but none of those were found in this part of ND.
Native American History
The Arikara, Crow, Blackfeet, Gros Ventre, Chippewa, Cree, Sioux, and Rocky Boy tribes are all associated with lands within the park. Many modern interpretations by tribal elders explain the difficulties surrounding life in the North Dakota badlands. Native peoples considered the buttes the homes of many animal spirits and came to the badlands on vision quests and for many other rituals. A significant amount of hunting and gathering was done in the region as well.
The most significant tribes to call this area home were the lesser known Mandan and Hidatsa (close relatives of the Crow). Their traditional bison hunting grounds consisted of the Little Missouri River basin that runs through the park. The healthy bison population had many advantages for the Manda, Hidatsa, and Crow. Eagle trapping was also important to their respective cultures. This was an intensely spiritual process that followed social and astrological protocols.
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt first came to the North Dakota territory in 1883. While visiting the badlands, Roosevelt quickly fell in love with the rugged landscape, and it’s honestly not hard to see why. He became interested in the relatively new business of cattle ranching. After talking to local ranchers, he invested in a local cattle operation known as the Maltese Cross.
Tragedy struck Roosevelt not long after when the following year he lost both his wife and mother and returned to the badlands to find solace. It was during this stay that he decided to open a second ranching venture – Elkhorn Ranch. You can still visit the site where the original cabin sat and learn all about Roosevelt’s time there.
After its creation, Roosevelt considered Elkhorn to be his home and spent most of his time there whenever he was in the Dakota territory.
While in the Dakota Territory in his 20s, Roosevelt wrote with terrific detail and prose of his experiences in the wilds. Books including Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail, Hunting Trips of a Ranchman, and The Wilderness Hunter each provide a glimpse into the romantic attachment Roosevelt had to the West.
Theodore Roosevelt Reading Suggestion
I’ve always been really interested in Roosevelt and have read many books about him and written by him. Here are a few suggestions for reading before your visit to Theodore Roosevelt National Park:
Is Theodore Roosevelt National Park worth a visit? Yes! This hidden gem is worth a visit and in my opinion, is one of the most underrated National Parks in the United States. Do yourself a favor and don’t skip this spectacular National Park.
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